[旅遊] 2019 <南方太陽> 意大利南部 4天3夜行程 :龐貝古城 Trip to Naples - Pompeii (I)


(維蘇威火山)

早於年初時已開始安排在復活節連假(4天)出去走走,最後決定由拿坡里進然後羅馬離開。因為只有4 天,然後踫巧復活節,梵蒂岡星期日及Easter Monday 很多景點都不開,所以這次行程如下: 

I have planned this trip to Italy during Easter holiday since early this year, I entered Italy from Naples and leave at Rome. Since many places in Vatican are closed on Sunday and Easter Monday, so my schedule were as follows:


(I)
第一天:先到拿坡里的龐貝古城
First Day: From Naples to Pompeii

(I I)
第二天:早上搭火車到羅馬,然後出發到梵蒂岡 
Second Day: Travel from Naples to Rome and metro to Vatican

(I I I)
第三天:羅馬市中心
Third Day: Rome City Centre

第四天:早上於羅馬火車站附近逛,然後乘坐火車到羅馬機場

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龐貝城一直是我想到的地方。從小時候看書知道有一個城市因為火山爆發,一夜之間被熔岩覆蓋,所有東西,特別是生命的動作/最後形態都停在那一個時間點上。有什麼比這樣更能讓我們理解及明白當時的文化?

Pompeii has always on my bucket list on travelling, I read about it when I was a child - a city was covered by lava in one night and their time remained station since then. It is such an opportunity for us to closely learn and understand the culture and background of the city.









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拿坡里市中心/Naples City Centre

到達拿坡里機場可乘搭巴士到市中心。出了機場大約走5分鐘便到巴士站,途中也有指示。車票是於車上向司機購買,一律5,車長也提醒購票後要打卡。

Once I landed at the airport, I straightly took the Aero bus (5) to Naples city centre. You can purchase the ticket with the driver on the bus and remind to stamp the card to activate it. 

(候車中

到達市中心並到住宿地方放下行李後,便馬上趕去站乘坐鐵路CircumvesuvianaNapoli Centrale Pompeii Scavi ( Pompeii ruin) 站內沒有提供售票機,所以必須到售票處向工作人員購票。*入站時必須打卡,到站了都是自由出入。

After checking in, I went back to the station and took the train Circumvesuviana from Napoli Centrale to Pompei Scavi. The tickets can be purchased from the counter next to the train entrance. 




(入口

出了站便開始看到了很多兜售龐貝城入場門票的團隊,也有不少餐廳,非常熱鬧。因為同一張票不能重複進場,所以如要進餐,建議進場前或離場後到附近的餐廳吃飯。場內也有一家餐廳提供簡單飲食。另外,遊客是可以帶食物進場,所以在午飯時間看到很多人都隨便在場內找個地方坐下休息及進食。但緊記吃完後要好好收拾!

Once I reached the station, lots of booths and people are selling the tickets for Pompeii site. There are lots of restaurants available as well. As you cannot re-enter the site using the same ticket, it is strongly recommended to have meal before/after the visit, and they have one bar/restaurant inside the site for something light. Otherwise, you can bring your own food and drink to the site, a lot of tourists simply sat on the pavement to eat and rest. 
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(當天走的路線圖: 紅色是去程; 藍色是回程



龐貝城非常大,場所免費提供的地圖也因應個人的時間而貼心的指示不同路線圖: 2/3/5/7 小時。 場景也有不同出入口,可以因為個人喜好而作出安排。

The site is huge, some places are undergoing renovation as well. From the free map the site provided, different routes ( 2h/3h/5h/7h) were recommended, you may choose the one that suits your schedule. 




(古代班馬線/crosswalk


(Temple of Apollo


我是從Porta Marina門口進場,入場後左手便看到 Temple of Apollo 及主廣場 Foro (英: Forum)

I purchased the ticket and entered from the entrance - Porta Marina, soon I entered the site, Temple of Apollo and Forum is on my left hand side.



(Forum




(以前商店的檯子




(洗衣場:古羅馬人收集雨水並加入尿液讓奴隸洗衣服的地方
(Laundry places: Ancient Romans collected the rain from the patio and mix it with urine for washing clothes)


(馬賽克/ Mosaic




(Amphitheater


(Amphitheater 裡面


(Large Palestre



往東面行的盡頭便會看到Amphitheater (就是鬥獸場的微型version ),旁邊是Palestre Grande 裡面有展品展示在不同時期/年代的古物。建築物外面也非常寬敞,有很多遊客都是坐在樹蔭下休息及進食。

Amphitheater is located at the east side of the city (like a smaller version of the Colosseum), exhibition halls are set up inside Palestre Grade, which is next to the Amphitheater. 

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(葡萄園


(Vineyard


(Basilica

去的那天天氣很好,雖然太陽很猛,但不時有風,所以4月也是一個到龐貝城參觀的不錯時機。這次在龐貝城逗留了差不多4個小時,都把重點景點都看到。

The weather was really nice, not too cold/ hot. I would say April is a good time to visit Pompeii. I spent around 4 hours there and was able to go through all the famous spots on site. 

(排隊進妓院 - Lupanare



最後當然要到最著名的妓院了!妓院其實在龐貝城非常普遍,在人口約20,000 人的城鎮但已經有30多家妓院(可想而知那時候的人需求多大),加上龐貝城非常靠近海邊,很多因為貿易的關係從其他地方來的人也因此需要服務(想像一下,航海幾個月所堆積起來的下船後便開始要找渠道抒發)。雖然當初有30多家,但現在只有一家保存並展出。一幢建築物分上下兩層,每層有5個床位/房間。

The most famous spot on site should be the brothel. Brothels are very common in Pompei, there were 30s brothels meanwhile the populations were around 20,000. There is only 1 brothel that tourists can visit. The brothel is separated into 2 floors, 5 rooms each. 

(牆上的畫像




進去便看到牆上畫了不少性交的圖像。以前客人都是根據自己的要求而指著圖像下單(根本就是原始版的圖像menu! 言語障礙根本不是問題!)每次服務大約是當時的一瓶酒的價格,人氣旺的時候,隊尾是會排到大街上。

The paintings on the walls are different sexual positions, which customers use it as menu for ordering. Each service costs around a bottle of wine at that time, during the busy time, the queue can be lined up to the main street. 

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(Osteria - La Chitarra

餐廳地址 Address: Rampe S. Giovanni Maggiore, 1, 80134 Napoli NA, Italy

離開龐貝城已經大約傍晚5點多,回到市區便開始找餐廳!這次選了較車站遠一點的餐廳(遠離遊客區),網上評語也不錯。店內有英文餐單,但店主不太會說英語,可是仍會很有耐性的跟我交談。因為是一家小店,所以我坐下之後,除了另一家,其他進店的人都已是有訂位子,沒有的只好離去。

I left the site around 5pm and headed back to Naples centre for dinner. I found this restaurant on Google, it has a fairly good rating online. English menu is available, even though the staffs speak minimal English, they were helpful and answered my questions patiently. It is a small and cozy restaurant, most people have to make reservation before seated.  

*意大利文Osteria/Ostaria: 在很多意大行餐館都會看到,雖然原意是指小餐館,售賣酒水及簡單食物,但現在慢慢轉型,大部分都是烹調當地著名的料理,而且價錢較便宜。

*I have noticed the word Osteria/Ostaria appeared in many places, originally refers to places that offer wine and simple food, but its meaning has changed these days, which now refers restaurants that are offering local food with cheaper price. 




拿坡里位於海邊,所以有很多地道料理都是海鮮。這次點了Fried Cod 配白酒,然後加了一個配菜(店媽推薦的)。最後點了一個甜點- Torta All' Amaretto。共25

I have ordered fried cod fish ( one of the famous dishes in Naples) and a vinegar Zucchini that recommended by the staff. Along with the Torta All' Amaretto as dessert, the meal costs 25. 

*很多時候去其他國家旅遊的時候去餐廳的時候最煩惱的是要不要付小費,然後要付多少?意大利不像美國,一定要付個15-25%的小費,有時候帳單來的時候如看到Coperto (麵包//鹽的費用)Servizio (小費,通常8人以上會自動加在帳單上)的字眼,就代表帳單已包括了服務費/小費。如沒有,可以不付也沒有問題那當然,如果你想多付也絕對歡迎

*Travelling in foreign countries always made me wonder whether I should pay tips, if so, how much should I pay? In Italy, if you see the word "Coperto" ( cost of bread/salt/Olive oil) or " Servizio" ( service charge, charged automatically with a group more than 8 people) on the bill, meaning cover charge/ service charges has already included, you can choose not to pay extra. Of course, if you want to pay extra, it is more than welcome. 


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