[旅遊] 2019 <走出過去> 波蘭之旅4日3夜 - 奧斯威辛集中營 Trip from Warsaw to Auschwitz Birkenau﹙III﹚




第三天:奧斯威辛集中營

Day 3 : Auschwitz Birkenau concentration camp


在華沙以及Kraków 都設立了一日團,接送大家由市區到達集中營。如果想自己自駕遊的話,由Kraków 開車過去會比較快,車程差不多兩小時就到了,但由華沙去集中營開車至少要3.5-4小時。

One day tour to Auschwitz Birkenau concentration camp is available in both Warsaw and Kraków. If you would like to drive to the concentration camp, travelling from Kraków would be more ideal as it would take less than 2 hours. But traveling from Warsaw to Auschwitz Birkenau takes 3.5 - 4 hours of driving. 

網上看到由華沙到奧斯威辛集中營的一日團太約是320,非常昂貴。最後給我找到了這一家由"get your guide" 舉辦的華沙-奧斯威辛集中營的一日團,價格相對較便宜。集合地點是於早上7點的華沙Marriott Hotel,然後開車到集中營

I checked the price for the one day tour from Warsaw to Auschwitz Birkenau would cost around 320 (quote online and tourist information centre), which is way out of my budget. After some searching, I was able to find a cheaper day tour from the web " get your guide" - Auschwitz Birkenau day tour from Warsaw . The meeting point is 7 am outside Marriott Hotel in Warsaw, and the driver will drive us to the concentration camp.



大約11時便到達集中營博物館,然後經過安檢便看到了導遊了,大家都給分配了一個耳機方便聽到導遊的說話。導遊向我們簡單介紹集中營的歷史,然後帶領我們一團人到每一個展覽館(前身是監獄)參觀。

By the time we reached to the camp was around 11 am. Passing the security, the tour guide was waiting for us and distributing the audio for us. The guide introduced the history in each exhibition all on the site. 





(集中營指揮官Rudoff Hoss執行死刑的地方
(Execution of the commandant Rudoff Hoss




Auschwitz Birkenau 集中營前身是波蘭的政治犯監獄,直到納粹黨佔領這個地方陸續擴建。每一位進來的波蘭政治犯都會有記錄(什麼時候進來、職業、離世的日子)。而給納粹帶來的猶太人完全沒有進利登記,到了月台便給軍方分成兩組,老弱婦孺的都會立即帶去毒氣室。軍方告知他們需要消毒,然後食物都會於他們清洗後準備好,而其實他們會吸入毒氣身亡。另外一組都會帶去作工人的用途,告知他們是受僱於軍方,同時參與擴建集中營、維持軍中日常活動。

Auschwitz Birkenau was a former jail for Polish political prisoners. Every prisoners were recorded when they entered Auschwitz Birkenau ( eg, date of entry, occupations, date of death). For the Jews that brought from different part of the world did not go through the system, which they were separated into two groups - women, children and people who were disabled were straightly moved to the gas chamber. They were told that they were going to have a shower in the chamber and food would be ready afterwards. Another group, normally were young males would be told to be employed by the military and they would stay and work in the camp.


(使用過的毒氣罐
(Used gas cans
於博物館的展館內也陳列不少當時納粹軍大屠殺的證據,例如所使用過的毒氣罐及收據。最令人震撼及印象深刻的一定要數納粹軍從猶太人身上拿到的財產。

Items that were used or collected during the Holocaust were displayed in the exhibition hall, such as the receipts and the used gas cans. Most unforgettable scene must be the valuables and items that were taken away from the Jews.

(義肢

(猶太人的個人用品
當猶太人於毒氣室給謀殺,工作人員收集他們的衣物、頭髮,並取走值錢的東西(如金牙,眼鏡,義肢等),最後將遺體帶到火葬爐火化,餘下的灰都會當肥料的散播四周。所收集到的頭髮會給工人處理,然後製成地毯;金屬的物件全數溶掉並運回德國;其他物件也會運到不同國家及工廠作後期處理並作售買用途。當時二戰解放後,發現集中營收存了7噸以上的頭髮、數以萬計的鞋子、用具等等。展覽館只是展出了一部分的物件,但數量之多也帶給參觀者難以忘懷的震撼感。

After the Jews were killed in the gas chamber, the workers collected their clothes and valuables ( such as gold teeth and eye glasses) and shaved off their hair. Then the bodies were move to the crematory. The ash was used as fertilizer in the surrounding area. The hair was knitted into carpet; valuables such as metal was melt and remold and ship it back to Germany. Other valuables were sent off to other counties for resale. After WWII, 7 tons of hairs and thousands of shoes were founded inside the camp. The exhibition hall was only able to display part of the items. 
(政治囚犯的洗手檯
除此之外,大家也參觀當初波蘭的政治囚犯的生活地方,醫院、監牢以及懲罰室等,領隊講述了當時囚犯所受到的不人道對待以及為日後猶太人大屠殺實施的人體實驗等等,這些地方因為要尊重死者所以不能拍照,走過的地方每一步都是沈重的。(小故事:雖然在那麼惡劣下,人性還是存在。在懲罰區有一間牢是放了鮮花以及蠟燭,領隊講述一件牢中的人情味滿滿的故事 - 在懲罰區關的都是犯了錯的人士(如逃獄),然後根據他們所做的事關在不同等級的牢,例如於小房間跟其他人站一整晚;不給予食物;在密閉空間關40人一整晚,慢慢讓他們缺氧而死等等。有一名男子跟看守員提出他代替另一名男子接受挨餓的條件,讓他離開懲戒區,而看守員也答應了。到最後那名男子在缺乏食物下的情況14天也活著,而看守員覺得太久了(因為當時普遍犯人餓兩天便去世)到最後看守員決定向那命男子注射 Zyklon B(齊克隆B - 強烈殺蟲劑)結束他的生命。而另外那名男子戰後得以活下來,並後來回到達集中營的懲戒牢獻上鮮花作為對那名為他代死的男子的感謝及紀念。)到這裡差不多是導覽的尾聲,大約1.5小時。

The guide also brought us to the prisons inside the camp, photos and videos were not allowed in there as a respect to the deceased prisoners. The guide mentioned the prisoners were treated as "laboratory mouse" by the SS for several experiential. The whole tour lasts for 1.5 hours on this site.



下一站去到集中營的另一邊,參觀時間約1小時。這邊是免費入場,並不需要導遊也可進去參觀。裡面主要看的是當年納粹單一卡一卡運載猶太人的火車月台、毒氣室、囚犯的居住環境。

Next, we all went to the other side of the camp, which tourists do not require any tour to enter this site. Here is the platform that Nazi used for transporting the Jews and the gas chamber during the Holocaust. 



很多建築物都在納粹軍在撒退的時候炸掉,所以看到的都是垣頹敗瓦。

Many buildings were blown up/ destroyed by the Nazi before they left the site, therefore you can see the gas chamber was not in its original shape.





到盡頭的位置有記念碑讓後人不要忘掉因戰爭而死去的人。參觀的時候下大雨,所以路有點難走。最後,大家也參觀了當初囚犯留宿的地方,導遊也說明當時他們的生活環境和品質非常糟,每人一天要工作12小時,但一天吃的食物總共只有1000大卡,所以很多人都因為身體出問題或營養不良而死去。有些能夠生存到戰爭結束,但因為身體的狀況,就算到醫院得到醫治,也未能活下去。最令人深思的是導遊的一番話距離戰爭發生了70多年,每一天我都會走在這裡,希望每一個來到的人會深思,特別是為自己行為負責(act responsibly)。

At the end of the railway is a memorial stand for the Holocaust during the WWII. At the end of the tour, we visited the living housing for the prisoners/ workers during the war. It was very obvious that they were maltreated - working 12 hours and only able to consume 1000 calories each day. Many people died because of the maltreatment and malnutrition. Even though some people were able to survive till the war ends, their health condition was really bad and died soon afterwards. Before the tour finished, our guide mentioned that even though the war ended 70 years ago, everyday she walked and introduced this place to tourists from all over the world, she hoped everyone who came here can self reflect and act responsibly. 

個人感想:集中營立入為世界文化遺產,目的是讓作教育用途,讓參觀者從歷史中學習,不要重覆往人的錯誤。說真的,又有幾個人能從中學習,或者是學到了什麼呢?
參觀集中營的確提供了一個現實的環境讓人更加真實的感受當時的環境,畢竟很多資訊及內容在網絡上都能找到,甚至更詳細,但再多的知識都不及在原地走一回的感受來的深。當時發生的不人道行為展現了戰爭的殘酷。不論在哪個時代,哪個國家,戰爭的開始,人類族群必然受罪。就算二戰結束了70多年,但戰爭以及不人道的事情現在每天都在上演(看看非洲、北韓、伊拉克這些地方),這些只讓我深深感受到殘酷的源頭都不外乎是人與人之間對權力、地位和利益的鬥爭,同時他們以武力作為解決之道。我想我們最需要學習的一件事是 - 自我實現/滿足(self fulfillment)不應建立於別人痛苦身上/不需犧牲他人。自我滿足應透過挑戰自我而從中成長,讓自己become a better person。需要犧牲他人而達到目的的只是單純滿足自己的虛榮心,展示自己是比別人好,但這並不代表自己是優秀。

下一篇:[旅遊] 2019 波蘭之旅4日3夜 - Trip to Warsaw_ Praga & Chopin Museum 蕭邦博物館 ( IV)

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